"I would like to finish my basement.  What is the process?"

First, contact us to schedule a consultation.

At our initial meeting we will measure your basement and discuss your basement design, taking into consideration your wants, needs and suggestions.

When we return for our second visit we will present you with a proposal which includes one or two floor plan options, and a detailed outline of everything that will be included in your basement finish.  We will then tweak the floor plan and proposal to your satisfaction.

Your project will begin within a few days of your signing the contract.


"Who should pull the permits for my basement finish?"

A legitimate basement contractor will pull the permits himself.

There are a number of basement finishers that suggest a homeowner pull the permits, telling them that it is cheaper for the homeowner to do so.  This is not true, and should be considered a huge ‘red flag’ warning.

In El Paso county, it is required by law for a basement finisher to be a licensed general contractor.  The individual who suggests that the homeowner pull the permit is doing so because he does not hold a contractor's license and is unable to acquire one.  There are primarily two reasons an individual does not have a general contractor’s license: He lacks the knowledge, expertise and ability to pass the test which is required to obtain the license, and/or he had a license and lost it because of shoddy business practices. 

Please keep in mind that if unlicensed individuals are working on your home and something tragic happens, your insurance company may cover the cost of that loss.

All of the subcontractors, if working under a legitimate fully licensed general contractor, will be licensed and insured in their individual areas of expertise.  This insures that the homeowner is protected.


"Once I have signed the contract, is the price of my basement finish going to increase?"

Absolutely not!

Basement finishing is a very competitive market.  There are many unscrupulous individuals who, in an effort to seal the deal will give low-ball bids that the potential customer cannot resist.  The unfortunate truth is, if something sounds too good to be true, it most likely is.

Contractors who present unrealistically low bids do so with every intention of adding on costs throughout the project, knowing that the customer with whom they have signed a contract will feel obligated to accept cost variations. 

We at Better Built Basements, Inc. have never gone to a customer with an unexpected cost increase stating that 'we missed this or that and now have to change the price'.  Our cost will never change, as long as you, the homeowner, do not change the conditions of the contract.


"Should I add additional insulation to my basement walls?"

Most concrete foundation walls in unfinished basements have a white vinyl wrapped R-11 insulating blanket secured to the walls.  This is a code requirement.  You are not required to add any additional insulation to the foundation walls.

For those who are interested, an additional 3½” of high density fiberglass R-15 insulation may be placed in the 2 x 4 framed walls that are going to be placed immediately adjacent to the concrete foundation walls around the perimeter of the basement.  This will result in the walls having a total R-26 value.  This will help to reduce heating and cooling costs in the basement area, and over time will result in a savings on utilities as well.


"What about the basement ceiling?  Should I insulate it to provide soundproofing?"

A number of contractors will try to convince a customer that insulating a basement ceiling will help to keep the noise down in the basement.

Insulating a basement ceiling provides a minimal benefit.  In many instances while on the 2nd floor, homeowners can listen to conversations and hear their children playing in the basement because sound resonates through framing materials, mostly traveling through the heat and cold air ducts.

We make every effort to help our customers make educated decisions.  In our opinion it is a waste of money to insulate between the ceiling joists.  Insulation is not typically placed between the 1st and 2nd floors of a home. Why would it be necessary to insulate between the basement and the main floor?


"Will I be required to upgrade my primary electrical service panel as a result of finishing my basement?"

Each project is unique and electrical requirements will be determined upon our initial inspection and discussed with the homeowner.


"I already have an Egress window in the main area of my basement.  Do I need more than one?"

Current code requires that there be one egress window, window well (36” projection off the face of the window), and ladder in an unfinished basement.  When finishing the basement, that requirement often changes depending on a number of circumstances.

The requirement of only one window well with a ladder in an unfinished space no longer applies if multiple bedrooms are built in that space.  Each bedroom is required to have its own egress window, window well and ladder.  Egress window wells and ladders are not required in the remainder of the basement.

Homes built prior to the year 2000 required a 30” window well projection, which requirement is grandfathered in when finishing a basement in one of these homes today.  Any home built in the year 2000 or after requires a 36” window well projection.


"How can I get rid of the closed in 'tunnel feeling' at the bottom of my basement stairs?"

On occasion we find that there is a door at the bottom of the basement stairs.  When deciding whether or not to remove the door, the following may be taken into consideration:

1) A door at the base of the stairs provides privacy, noise control and heat retention.

2) Is a door necessary?  A door is not typically used to separate a first floor and second floor of a home, and is not needed to separate the basement from the rest of the home.  In fact, Mechanical Inspectors prefer not having one.

To eliminate the closed in ‘tunnel feeling' at the base of an open stairwell, you can remove part of the wall on one side of the stairs to expose approximately 3 treads, or open the wall approximately 4-5’ at the base of the stairs and have either a short wall or open railing and spindles in that area.


"How can I best utilize the space under my basement stairs?"

Under stair space is often used for storage, and while we have inserted a linen or game closet into the space for many of our customers, we often suggest to those with small children or grandchildren that they consider converting the space into a special children’s play area, where little ones' imaginations can run wild.

Some customers opt to convert the under stair space into a reading nook.  In those instances we open the area and install a platform that will hold a twin size mattress.  A set of shelves can be inset into the side wall, special lighting and a receptacle for charging phones and games complete the space.  This cozy nook not only provides a comfy place to curl up and relax, it can also be used as an inviting space for overnight guests.

Whether the space is to be left open or enclosed, converted into a playhouse or a reading nook, enjoyed by adults or by our tiniest of clients; the sky is the limit when it comes to designing this wonderful and often underutilized space.

 


"Is it possible to install a fireplace in my basement?"

We have installed many basement fireplaces, most of which are gas units.

For those who are on tight budgets, electric units are available which give the look and feel of a standard fireplace at a comparatively very reasonable cost.

Furnace grade fireplaces, though more costly, actually help heat the space.


"Can I have a Wet Bar in my basement?"

A Wet Bar can easily be added to your basement.  We offer a wide variety of designs that range from simple and basic, to very grand and opulent.  Your beautiful Wet Bar area will be designed to perfectly reflect your style and needs.


"What type of flooring is best for my basement?"

Concrete floors typically found in a basement create a unique set of challenges when considering flooring. Flooring choice depends heavily on the basement floor condition.

Most of the time a good quality carpet and pad are the best option, as they help to mitigate many of these problems.  For those who want a laminate or similar flooring, oft times concrete has to be ground and/or filled in order to provide the proper surface for the installation of these types of flooring.

Tile is often used in wet bar and bathroom areas.  It can also be used throughout the basement when circumstances allow.


"How do I conceal my sump pit?"

A great number of basements have sump pits with sump pumps in place which were furnished by the original home builder.   We often find a sump pump has never been installed in the pit, and in those situations, we strongly suggest the installation of a pump.  It is a small price to pay to help guard against your basement flooding.

Sump pits are often installed in the utility room where it isn’t an issue. Unfortunately, many times sump pumps are installed in a corner or other random location of the basement. In those instances, a closet can be built around the sump pit or a more decorative set of shelves can be constructed to conceal it. It can also be incorporated into a wet bar area where a standard kitchen cabinet conceals the sump pit. Every space is unique.

A STRONG WORD OF CAUTION: A sump pump pit is a very deep, narrow cylindrical hole that can be anywhere from 3' to 6' deep and often has several inches of standing water at the bottom of the pit.  This should be considered an attractive nuisance which is very dangerous for small children.  Sump pump lids are very light and simply set into place.  A curious child could easily remove the lid, fall into the pit and become seriously injured or drown.  To prevent such a tragedy, homeowners can easily secure the lid by simply installing a few screws through the rim of the casing into the lid, ensuring that a child will never be able to disengage the lid to access the pit.

 


"Are there aspects of the work I can do myself to save money?"

We would be happy to discuss the pros and cons of different aspects of the work that you might do yourself to help save money on your basement project.

When deciding whether or not to do portions of the project yourself, it is important to consider whether you have time and the skill set necessary to complete the work.  These projects often involve more time and effort than anticipated.


"Can I hang and finish my own drywall?"

We often have customers suggest that they’d like to do their own drywall to save money.
Drywall hanging, finishing and texturing is some of the most labor intensive and challenging work that goes into a basement.
 
It is definitely a task best left to the professionals, as it requires a very refined skill set that an average handyman or homeowner does not have.
 
This is the largest surface area in the basement that will be seen by all.  A poor drywall job will substantially devalue a property.

"Can I have the rough-ins done and finish the work myself?"

It would be very difficult to find a sub-contractor who would be willing to pull a permit and do the job half way, then allow the homeowner to finish the work.  Doing so would place a considerable amount of liability on the sub-contractor, which he would not be willing to incur. 

Case in point: An electrical contractor does the rough in on a job and allows the customer to hook up all the switches, receptacles and light fixtures.  If something happens, such as an electrical arc which causes the house burn, how would it be determined who is at fault?  Whose insurance would cover the loss? 

It would be a foolish contractor who would be willing to take on the risk.


"Our finances are tight and we would like to finish our basement in segments.  Is that possible?"

The best and most cost-effective approach to doing a basement finish is to wait until you have the money and do it all at once.

There are a number of negative aspects to segmenting a basement finish.

When the framing is done, if it is not covered with drywall in a reasonable amount of time, the studs have a tendency to twist, bow and warp. Covering the framing with drywall in a timely manner negates that issue.

Each of the trades do an initial rough-in and then follow up by coming back a second time to finish their aspect of the work after other work has been completed. By segmenting the project, it greatly increases the time element and permits will most likely expire, resulting in additional costs to extend the permits.

It is very frustrating for sub-contractors to start work and not be able to finish it in a timely manner, and segmenting a project prevents them from doing so.  It creates a cash flow issue for them, as they have their time, energy and materials tied up in a project on which they are unable to receive payment until the work is completed.


"Do you offer financing?"

We do have someone who can help you in your search for financing.


"Who should I hire to finish my basement?"

Jared and John, of course!

There are many builders in the area who are capable of finishing basements.  It is our hope that you will give us an opportunity to finish your basement space.  All of our people are very cordial and go out of their way to ensure that our customers are satisfied with their work and work ethic.

Having over 80 years of combined experience, Jared and John will help to ensure that you get exactly what you want ... the basement of your dreams.

The bottom line is ... "If you want it built better, get a Better Built Basement!"